LAN OBJECTIVE: TO SHARE A BROADBAND INTERNET CONNECTION VIA WIRED ETHERNET &/OR WIFI

 

Requirements:

Left Arrow: Modem portRight Arrow: NIC port

modem does for a phone connection. Two types are available:

Internal ethernet NIC 10/100/1000 or

External USB ethernet NIC 10/100, or MIMO

 

  1. Verify that your PC can browse the web. Disconnect the cable from your PC that connects your pc to your Cable modem.  This cable then goes to the LAN port on your router so it can then distribute the signal from the digital modem to multiple pc’s. Connect your PC to one of the 4 LAN ports on the router.
  2. Connect the power to your router.

***Insert the CD (if instructed) to configure your router. Some router brands insist that you install the software before you connect the router-check your manual. Some offer a set up wizard by browsing to the router as shown below or…

you can configure it manually as shown below.

IP Address: Each machine connected to the Internet has an address known as an Internet Protocol address (IP address). The IP address takes the form of four numbers separated by dots, for example: 123.45.67.890

Double click the icon for the active Local Area or WIFI Connection in the system tray (two computers) to discover the IP information that your connection has been assigned. Or refer to the router’s manual.

ALL routers have a pre-assigned IP range, ex:

Belkin 192.168.2.xxx

DLink  192.168.0.xxx

Linksys 192.168.0.xxx

 

Click on the SUPPORT tab to find the IP address of your router (Default Gateway). 
Enter the gateway number in the address line of your browser, ex: 192,168.2.1 and click the ENTER key.   If you encounter a login, refer to the router manual for this info.

 

You are now in the configuration screens of the router. The menu on the left lists the various information screens.  Your installation CD will have an installation wizard that will ask you all of the relevant questions to complete these screens.  Or you can access them manually if you wish to configure advanced settings.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

If your ISP requires a static IP (fixed) number you denote that here.  Most IPS’s do not require this.

My ISP does not require a static (fixed) IP address so I select DYNAMIC.

Note that the status shows NO CONNECTION at this point even though our physical connections are in place!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Your router will lease IP numbers to your LAN devices (pc’s) from this range of numbers.  The subnet mask should not be modified. DHCP is the router’s utility that automatically assigns IP numbers to connected PC’s on my LAN.  These assigned numbers should have an expiration date for security.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Assign a unique identifier as your domain name if available.

 

Accept the default settings for the wireless channel but not for the SSID.  This is the name that the WIFI network will broadcast. Broadcasting  the SSID is something I may want to disable so my nearby neighbors or *WAR DRIVERS can’t detect my WIFI network.

*Wardriving is driving around searching for a Wireless LAN (802.11) network and then logging into it while in motion.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

ALL WIFI NETWORKS SHOULD BE SECURED.  I prefer the 128 encryption level-only the really artful hackers can infiltrate it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I let the router generate the 128 bit key for me based off of a pass phrase. This key must then be provided to the NIC on every device that intends to connect to the WIFI LAN or they will not be able to connect.

 

 

 

 

The pass phrase is translated into hexadecimal code that will then be used as your encryption key.

It’s much easier than trying to figure one out on your own!

 

 

 

my encryption key =

9c760c1260d3bd8e31a902e140

Once the key has been generated I immediately create a new text document (start/run/write) and type the key in so I can save it in a document. Then I can copy/paste it whenever necessary. It’s a lot easier than typing it by hand and you’ll have it recorded!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

MAC ADDRESS: Media Access Control (MAC) Address is a unique MAC address that each network device has burned into it.

 

My ISP registered & stored the MAC identification number of my NIC as part of my account info.  They will not permit an unknown device to connect. To avoid having to contact them to add the router’s MAC address to, I tell the router to “clone the MAC address” of the NIC. The ISP never realizes this has been done. Otherwise I would have to contact them to register the device.

 

 

ALWAYS change the default password and provide your own password to keep your network secure!

 

 

 

Once you have entered and saved all the changes (sometimes this is necessary on each screen) you will need to restart the router and the PC.

After the reboot your PC should immediately detect the new network connection (wired or WIFI) and attempt to retrieve an IP address from the router for that connection.  A wired connection will automatically connect but a secured WIFI connection will need to know the key to connect.


THE WIFI CONNECTION:

 

Once you have verified the wired connectivity, disconnect the ethernet cable. Your WIFI network adaptor should detect the new WIFI network. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Right click on the WIFI icon and select VIEW AVAILABLE WIRELESS NETWORKS.

 

Highlight the network name and then click on CONNECT and you will be prompted for the 128 bit key which will then be kept on record for subsequent connections.

 

 

To test the internet connection open a fresh web page that is not stored in your cache.

Ex: cnn.com, ebay.com, etc.

Once you have successfully connected to the router your firewall should ask you to approve the new network for future access. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

To manually add the network information, add it as a trusted range.  The range is always: xxx.xxx.xxx.1 – 255.  That permits 254 devices to connect to your LAN!

 
Your firewall should never again ask for approval of this network
J

 

FINALLY…open your browser and test to see if you can cruise the Internet.

 

***if you should ever lose your wired or WIFI connectivity you should temporarily shut down your firewall first to determine if it has interfered in some way.

 

 

ROUTER: (row´ter) (n.) A device that forwards data packets along networks. A router is connected to at least two networks, commonly two LANs or WANs or a LAN and its ISP’s network. Routers are located at gateways, the places where two or more networks connect.

ETHERNET 802.3: Wired ethernet standard, Current speeds range from 10 Mbps to 10 Gbps

ETHERNET 802.11X: 802.11 refers to a family of spec’s developed by the IEEE for wireless LAN technology;                          

                        802.11  1 or 2 Mbps

802.11a 54 Mbps

802.11b 11 Mbps

802.11g 20+ Mbps

802.11n (MIMO) 108, 240, and 350+ MHz

http://www.dslreports.com/

http://www.cnet.com.au/wireless/0,39028844,39151368,00.htm

http://compnetworking.about.com/cs/wireless80211/a/aa80211standard.htm

http://www.homenethelp.com/web/howto/family-access-control.asp

http://www.pcstats.com/articleview.cfm?articleid=1429&page=5

http://compnetworking.about.com/od/routers/

http://www.firewallguide.com/

http://www.howstuffworks.com/home-network.htm

http://www.cert.org/tech_tips/home_networks.html